Epigenetics has become a buzzword in the skincare industry, with many brands claiming that their products can influence gene expression to improve skin health. This concept, rooted in the science of heritable changes in gene expression, suggests that topical products like moisturizers and serums could potentially alter how genes are expressed in the skin.
Historically, non-medical skincare brands have used terms like anti-aging, firming, and lifting, stopping short of claiming that their products could have deep, gene-level effects. This caution is partly due to the relatively low concentration of active ingredients in these formulations compared to pharmaceutical-grade products. Yet, the marketing of “epigenetic skincare” raises questions about the true capabilities of these products. Can they really affect gene expression? Below, dermatologists weigh in on the science behind this emerging trend and whether the term “epigenetic skincare” holds any real significance.
Epigenetics involves the regulation of gene activity—how genes are turned on or off in response to environmental factors. “It’s about how genes make proteins and affect bodily functions in response to environmental stimuli,” explains Dr. Omer Ibrahim, a board-certified dermatologist at Chicago Cosmetic Surgery and Dermatology.
This process goes beyond the genetic code itself, which determines traits like skin color. As Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, puts it, “Think of your epigenetics as the instructions that your genes follow.”
Interestingly, epigenetic traits can be passed down through generations, meaning that environmental factors affecting your ancestors could influence your gene expression today.
The potential for epigenetics to impact skin appearance is still under investigation. “There’s a lot left to study in this area, especially when it comes to skin disorders and aging,” says Dr. Ibrahim. For example, research has shown epigenetic differences in inflammatory skin conditions like atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, but more studies are needed to fully understand these findings and develop targeted treatments.
Dr. Zeichner notes that changes in epigenetics are thought to contribute to various skin conditions and even premature aging. For instance, two people in the same environment with different genetic makeups may experience different levels of skin aging, such as deeper wrinkles or varying degrees of photoaging. The same applies to conditions like acne and other inflammatory skin disorders.
Can Skin-Care Products Influence Epigenetics?
While the concept of epigenetics involves activating or deactivating certain genes, most skincare products haven’t reached a level of sophistication that allows them to alter gene expression significantly. “Skincare targeting epigenetics may enhance cellular activities,” says Dr. Zeichner, but he cautions that these products might not be effective for those with severely damaged skin or previous DNA damage.
Dr. Ibrahim explains that skin aging and epigenetics often relate to oxidative stress caused by free radicals (reactive oxygen species, or ROS). The body’s production of antioxidant proteins and enzymes to combat ROS is regulated epigenetically.
Additionally, ingredients like retinol, collagen, and vitamin C, known for stimulating collagen production, also influence gene expression. “They’re essentially signaling the DNA to produce more collagen,” says Dr. Ibrahim. However, the promise of reversing aging through epigenetics in skincare remains unfulfilled.
Dr. Zeichner emphasizes that cosmetic companies must be cautious in their claims. “Cosmetics can’t claim to change the structure or function of the skin, which is why they talk about improving the appearance of wrinkles rather than actually treating them,” he explains.
Currently, the term “epigenetics” in skincare appears to be more of a marketing strategy than a reflection of groundbreaking science. “Any skincare ingredients that boost collagen and elastin production are, by definition, working on the genetic level, as these proteins can’t be produced without gene activity,” Dr. Ibrahim points out. But claims that epigenetic skincare can fundamentally change genes are, at this point, premature.
Moreover, it’s still unclear whether epigenetic skincare offers any advantages over traditional anti-aging ingredients. “We need comparative data to determine if stimulating the skin’s epigenetics is truly superior to using well-established ingredients like retinol,” says Dr. Zeichner.
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